All Around Performance Rock Climbing Shoes
It’s easy to get wrapped up in a project. It happens to everyone once in a while, that one special line, be it a boulder problem, fingercrack, or sport route. It’s also easy to get caught up in one particular type of climbing, especially when your options are limited.
There are many climbers, however, who like to taste all the flavors of climbing. Why focus on one type when there’s so much amazing rock out there to climb? These well-rounded climbers require footware that can perform on all types of terrain, and so we tallied user reviews to put together a list of shoes that are the best of the best when it comes to versatility.
FiveTen Prism - The Prism is the embodiment of Five Ten’s edging technology. The US Governement awarded Five Ten a patent for faceted edge technology (FET), which utilizes two flat rubber edges arranged at the perfect angle to grip the rock. The Prism features a non-stretch dual Perflex micro-fiber laced upper, as well as a little in the heel, allowing even the back of your feet to breathe. A progressive heel-lean encourages arch without too much force, allowing transitions between long trad routes and hard sport climbs with a simple tweaking of the laces. Top it off with upper padding, the Prism is one of the most comfy high performance shoes you can find.
FiveTen Moccasym - These slippers have been used to onsight 5.14, but perform great on everything from boulder problems to multi-pitch sport routes. Some would argue that these are the most comfortable climbing shoes made, as the unlined leather upper stretches to fit your foot like a sock. An extremely sensitive sole of Stealth C4 rubber provides amazing traction on smears an edges, and jams like a dream. The Moccasym is the perfect second shoe for every climber.
FiveTen Anasazi Verde - The insanely precise Verde has once again been improved, something we didn’t know was even possible! This FiveTen lace-up performs on all types of rock in all types of terrain. Recently upgraded with a low-profile, close-fitting heel, nicknamed “magic fingers” for its phenomenal gripping qualities, any potential dead space is gone, and precision and power are increased. In addition, the Verdes are now soled with Onyxx, FiveTen’s most durable sticky rubber to date.
La Sportiva Barracuda - These shoes won the Climbing Magazine Editor’s Choice Award for its unique features and excellent performance. The Barracudas have a Web Rubber toe-top, a sticky rubber covering that increases friction for jamming cracks and toe hooking in steep overhangs. These shoes are a great choice for all around, high-end sport and trad climbs. Featuring a highly breathable elastic tounge, your feet will stay ventilated on long routes on hot days. They fit any size foot with their asymmetrical lacing, and a lined leather upper keeps them from stretching.
Evolv Bandit - The Bandit is the perfect example of a multi-purpose performance lace-up shoe, allowing you to excel at crack climbing, edging, and smearing. The full length speed-lacing design provides a molded fit, and the side integrity webs provide great lateral support and a consistent fit over time. A stiff, teardrop shaped half midsole adds edging power without sacrificing flexibility in the midsection. The Bandit is the ideal shoe for climbers looking for precision edging.
Evolv Rockstar - The Rockstar is Evolv’s top selling women’s shoe, and won the 2004 Editor’s Choice Award for “Best Women’s Climbing Shoes” from both Rock & Ice Magazine and Climbing Magazine. It’s not coinsidense, as the Rockstar performs well on cracks, sport climbs, and all-day multi-pitch climbs. The graded-width lacing will accommodate the narrowest feet, and the comfortably tensioned heel rand will keep them comfortable on the longest of routes. The Rockstar’s moderately soft midsole allows both edging and smearing, with great sensitivity overall. The rear end is more relaxed, with a less aggressive slingshot and flatter heel cup. This sacrifices a little power, but increases comfort. Perfect for both beginners looking to improve, as well as advanced climbers who need a comfortable all-around shoe.